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"The Betty" Talking Paintball Bomb Prop & Siren
Countdown timer + wire cut
This listing is for a fully assembled Betty Paintball Time Bomb Prop Version.2. The Betty is a wonderful little prop that talks to you. It features a four digit combination lock function/deactivation mode with internal EEPROM memory so that you can save your combination after power off, easy code re-programming mode access, a wire-cut mode that allows for you to program a deactivation wire (The rest will act to trigger the alarm/relay), a loud siren/relay option, an 8-ohm 0.5 watt speaker so that the device can talk to you, and a timer (countdown timer or alarm timer ) I am selling these in two configurations.
1) The countdown timer version (This Listing)
2) The clock alarm version (See Store).
THE LISTED SHIPPING COSTS GETS YOU TRACKED SHIPPING FROM CANADA!
The video above may be long, but it goes you a full set of demonstrations for both versions. The first half of the video talks about this version, while the second half of the video talks about the alarm version (Inexpensive version). The video above will serve as the primary manual for this product. I will speak about specifications and how it works below.
Some Preliminary Things To Note:
1) This device comes assembled, but without a casing. It is up to the user to mount both boards and the loud siren, should the user decide to use the siren. The user can choose not to use the siren, and instead use the 5v relay to switch on something external to the circuit. This is talked about more below.
The two boards, and the loud siren each have mounting holes for easy installation. As well, the siren has the option of using a two-sided tape strip on the back of the siren. Simply remove the protective layer, and stick your siren to your project box.
2) A solid 9-12v power supply is required (Not included). If the voltage at the input drops below 7v, the device memory will not function correctly. The internal EEPROM combination lock code will not program or recall if the input voltage is under 7v.
This Set Comes With:
1x Fully Assembled Betty Board (Tested)
1x Fully Assembled Clock (Countdown Timer Version (Tested)
1x Modified Loud Siren With Plug
1x 0.5W 8 Ohm Speaker (To be plugged into SPK header)
1x Bundle Of Extra Wires For Wire-Cut Mode!
How It Works: (Watch the video for a full demonstration - Highly Recommended)
When you first receive your device and you have it mounted in your project box, you will need to program in a 4-digit code. If you apply power, the device will introduce itself by saying "Betty". This name was taken from Kung Pow - The Movie. Best movie ever! Love Master Pain! I digress. The device will then say "Enter Combination"... But... You don't know what the combination is, do you? You just powered it up for the first time. That means that you have to program in your own code. Do this by cutting power to the device, and holding down the "S1" button on the board while you re-apply power. Hold this button down until you hear "Enter Program Mode". Let go when you hear that. Then it will be able to enter in a four digit combination. Do so, and it will say "Code Programmed", "System Ready", "Program Wire"... Until you change that code, this will be your four digit deactivation code. However, there are two ways to deactivate the Betty...
Program Wire Mode:
When the device prompts the user to "Program Wire", it means that you get to choose which wire will be the deactivation wire. This is fun! If you look at the main board, there are four flying wire sets. Each wire is connected to two pins on an 8-pin header. Of the left hand side, look at the board. You will see that the left most pins are labelled "W1/W2/W3/W4", and that the right pins are simply labelled "COMMON". Each "W" must be connected to any of the pins on the COMMON rail. So W1 must always be connected to the common rail, W2 must be connected to the common rail, etc. If you hold down the S1 button, the green LED will flash once, then there will be a short delay. If you continue to hold, it will flash two times, then a delay, then three times if you continue to hold, hollowed with a delay, then four times, then a delay, then back to one flash if you are for some reason still holding it =). If after any of those four intervals you let go, then the programmed wire will be as many as the LEDs have flashed. Meaning that if I let go immediately after the green LED flashes three times, then W3 (wire#3) will be the deactivation wire when in active mode. All other wires will trigger the alarm. If after being prompted to Program Wire, I hold the button down and let go after two flashes of the green LED, then W2 will disable the system, and all other wires will trigger the alarm. Once you have chosed your wire, the device will prompt you to READY CLOCK!
Ready Clock:
Make sure that your countdown timer is set before you press the S1 button again. Set your clock by pressing the S1 button on the digital clock continuously until you see a single 0 on the right most digit. All other digits should not be lit up. From here, you can choose to increment the second from 1-9 by pressing the S3 button, or you can skip to the next digit by pressing the S2 button. Once you press the S2 button, the segment that is the second from the right (10 second digit) can be incremented by tapping the S3 button. You can program in as much time as you want, but when you are done, simply press the S2 button until all of the digits are lit up. From there, one more press of the S2 button will start the countdown timer. Once this timer has elapsed, the clock will send a signal to the main board, and will trigger an alarm if you have not disabled the system yet. If you disable the system, you have to re-program the clock, as it will continue to run. Once you have set your clock, you can press the S1 button on the main board, to ready the system.
System Ready:
When the device says (System Ready), it will follow with (Enter Combination). From here, the correct combination or the correct wire being cut-removed will deactivate the system. If the clock runs out, or if you cut the wrong wire, the alarm will sound. If you enter in the wrong combination, the system will say (Incorrect Combination), then (Enter Combination). If you deactivate the system, the device will say (System Deactivated) three times, then the device will reset, and will again say (Betty).
The Relay Or The Siren - You Choose!
This device comes to you with a modified siren that can be plugged directly into the main board and removed at any time. You have the option of using the relay to activate the loud siren, or to switch on something external. The relay outputs are CO - Common, NC - Normally Closed, and NO - Normally Open. You only need to know this if you want the relay to act as a switch to something external. The relay contacts are isolated from the Betty circuitry. The common pin is connected to the normally closed pin when the relay is deactivated. If the relay is triggered when the clock time elapses, or if you but the wrong wire, the relay activates, the the common pin connects to the normally open pin. These contacts and PCB traces are rated for high power, so you can use this to trigger a fuse if you wish.
WHEN THE ALARM GOES OFF...
When the alarm & relay is activated when the system is triggered, the user WILL NOT be able to turn it off until after the red LED is turned off. When the alarm is triggered, the user has to wait a minimum of 5 seconds until that red LED turns off before the alarm can be deactivated. After the red LED turns off, the user can press any button on the main board to reset the unit.
IF YOU WANT TO USE THE SIREN - LISTEN UP!
The siren is enabled by doing two things. Plugging it in and placing a jumper on the siren enable pins. If you are going to use the siren, you cannot use the relay for an external switch. If you are going to use the relay for an external switch, you CANNOT have the siren connected, and you CANNOT have the siren enable jumper connected. This is very important. The siren has two leads that need to be connected to a two pin header labelled SRN on the main board. One of the siren wires is red, and the other is black. It is connected to a two pin female plug. On the bottom of the board, there is a label for the siren leads (Siren+) and Siren-). Make sure that the red wire connects to the Siren+ line, and the black wire connects to the Siren- line. DO NOT REVERSE! The Siren+ line from the top side faces the microchips, while the Siren- pin is facing the blue 5v relay. The two pin enable (EN) jumper is just to the right of the SRN jumper connector. The two pin header connect should be placed on the EN leads to short them if you have the siren connected.
MAKE SURE not to have either connected if you are using the relay to switch on an external peripheral.
Power Requirements:
Power is connected through the two pin power terminal block. The pin labelled V+ (On board) is where you connect your positive DC voltage (9-12VDC). The GND terminal is the DC ground terminal for your DC ground line (Negative).
I have tried to outline what power is consumed at certain points below at different supply voltages so that you can better determine if your power source will do. The currents are rough, but should be accurate to 10%. It is hard to nail it down because the digits on the clock will weigh on the current consumption at any given time. At 12v input, the siren is louder, but it consumes more current. At 9v, the device consumes less current on the whole, but the siren is less loud. However, it is still certainly loud enough to wake the dead! Please note that the on board regulator will get HOT when the input supply is 12v, but it will not be damaged. Just be careful not to touch it. Also, if you have 11v-12v powering the board, try to make sure that if the alarmis triggered that you keep the siren on for no longer than 30 seconds. This is not an issue if the device is being powered at 9v-10v.
Input Supply Voltage: 8.5v Min to 12v MAX
Current Consumption At 12v:
Standby Current: 40mA (Depending On Clock)
Relay Activated (No Siren): 90mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 280mA- 300mA
Current Consumption At 9v:
Standby Current: 20mA - 25mA (Depending On Clock)
Relay Activated (No Siren): 48mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 220mA- 240mA
Main Board Size Specifications:
Length: 83mm
Width: 60mm
Height: 18mm
Clock Board Size Specifications:
Length: 105mm
Width: 50mm
Height: 8mm
Siren Size Specifications:
Base Length: 64mm
Base Width: 54mm
Height: 49mm
1) The countdown timer version (This Listing)
2) The clock alarm version (See Store).
THE LISTED SHIPPING COSTS GETS YOU TRACKED SHIPPING FROM CANADA!
The video above may be long, but it goes you a full set of demonstrations for both versions. The first half of the video talks about this version, while the second half of the video talks about the alarm version (Inexpensive version). The video above will serve as the primary manual for this product. I will speak about specifications and how it works below.
Some Preliminary Things To Note:
1) This device comes assembled, but without a casing. It is up to the user to mount both boards and the loud siren, should the user decide to use the siren. The user can choose not to use the siren, and instead use the 5v relay to switch on something external to the circuit. This is talked about more below.
The two boards, and the loud siren each have mounting holes for easy installation. As well, the siren has the option of using a two-sided tape strip on the back of the siren. Simply remove the protective layer, and stick your siren to your project box.
2) A solid 9-12v power supply is required (Not included). If the voltage at the input drops below 7v, the device memory will not function correctly. The internal EEPROM combination lock code will not program or recall if the input voltage is under 7v.
This Set Comes With:
1x Fully Assembled Betty Board (Tested)
1x Fully Assembled Clock (Countdown Timer Version (Tested)
1x Modified Loud Siren With Plug
1x 0.5W 8 Ohm Speaker (To be plugged into SPK header)
1x Bundle Of Extra Wires For Wire-Cut Mode!
How It Works: (Watch the video for a full demonstration - Highly Recommended)
When you first receive your device and you have it mounted in your project box, you will need to program in a 4-digit code. If you apply power, the device will introduce itself by saying "Betty". This name was taken from Kung Pow - The Movie. Best movie ever! Love Master Pain! I digress. The device will then say "Enter Combination"... But... You don't know what the combination is, do you? You just powered it up for the first time. That means that you have to program in your own code. Do this by cutting power to the device, and holding down the "S1" button on the board while you re-apply power. Hold this button down until you hear "Enter Program Mode". Let go when you hear that. Then it will be able to enter in a four digit combination. Do so, and it will say "Code Programmed", "System Ready", "Program Wire"... Until you change that code, this will be your four digit deactivation code. However, there are two ways to deactivate the Betty...
Program Wire Mode:
When the device prompts the user to "Program Wire", it means that you get to choose which wire will be the deactivation wire. This is fun! If you look at the main board, there are four flying wire sets. Each wire is connected to two pins on an 8-pin header. Of the left hand side, look at the board. You will see that the left most pins are labelled "W1/W2/W3/W4", and that the right pins are simply labelled "COMMON". Each "W" must be connected to any of the pins on the COMMON rail. So W1 must always be connected to the common rail, W2 must be connected to the common rail, etc. If you hold down the S1 button, the green LED will flash once, then there will be a short delay. If you continue to hold, it will flash two times, then a delay, then three times if you continue to hold, hollowed with a delay, then four times, then a delay, then back to one flash if you are for some reason still holding it =). If after any of those four intervals you let go, then the programmed wire will be as many as the LEDs have flashed. Meaning that if I let go immediately after the green LED flashes three times, then W3 (wire#3) will be the deactivation wire when in active mode. All other wires will trigger the alarm. If after being prompted to Program Wire, I hold the button down and let go after two flashes of the green LED, then W2 will disable the system, and all other wires will trigger the alarm. Once you have chosed your wire, the device will prompt you to READY CLOCK!
Ready Clock:
Make sure that your countdown timer is set before you press the S1 button again. Set your clock by pressing the S1 button on the digital clock continuously until you see a single 0 on the right most digit. All other digits should not be lit up. From here, you can choose to increment the second from 1-9 by pressing the S3 button, or you can skip to the next digit by pressing the S2 button. Once you press the S2 button, the segment that is the second from the right (10 second digit) can be incremented by tapping the S3 button. You can program in as much time as you want, but when you are done, simply press the S2 button until all of the digits are lit up. From there, one more press of the S2 button will start the countdown timer. Once this timer has elapsed, the clock will send a signal to the main board, and will trigger an alarm if you have not disabled the system yet. If you disable the system, you have to re-program the clock, as it will continue to run. Once you have set your clock, you can press the S1 button on the main board, to ready the system.
System Ready:
When the device says (System Ready), it will follow with (Enter Combination). From here, the correct combination or the correct wire being cut-removed will deactivate the system. If the clock runs out, or if you cut the wrong wire, the alarm will sound. If you enter in the wrong combination, the system will say (Incorrect Combination), then (Enter Combination). If you deactivate the system, the device will say (System Deactivated) three times, then the device will reset, and will again say (Betty).
The Relay Or The Siren - You Choose!
This device comes to you with a modified siren that can be plugged directly into the main board and removed at any time. You have the option of using the relay to activate the loud siren, or to switch on something external. The relay outputs are CO - Common, NC - Normally Closed, and NO - Normally Open. You only need to know this if you want the relay to act as a switch to something external. The relay contacts are isolated from the Betty circuitry. The common pin is connected to the normally closed pin when the relay is deactivated. If the relay is triggered when the clock time elapses, or if you but the wrong wire, the relay activates, the the common pin connects to the normally open pin. These contacts and PCB traces are rated for high power, so you can use this to trigger a fuse if you wish.
WHEN THE ALARM GOES OFF...
When the alarm & relay is activated when the system is triggered, the user WILL NOT be able to turn it off until after the red LED is turned off. When the alarm is triggered, the user has to wait a minimum of 5 seconds until that red LED turns off before the alarm can be deactivated. After the red LED turns off, the user can press any button on the main board to reset the unit.
IF YOU WANT TO USE THE SIREN - LISTEN UP!
The siren is enabled by doing two things. Plugging it in and placing a jumper on the siren enable pins. If you are going to use the siren, you cannot use the relay for an external switch. If you are going to use the relay for an external switch, you CANNOT have the siren connected, and you CANNOT have the siren enable jumper connected. This is very important. The siren has two leads that need to be connected to a two pin header labelled SRN on the main board. One of the siren wires is red, and the other is black. It is connected to a two pin female plug. On the bottom of the board, there is a label for the siren leads (Siren+) and Siren-). Make sure that the red wire connects to the Siren+ line, and the black wire connects to the Siren- line. DO NOT REVERSE! The Siren+ line from the top side faces the microchips, while the Siren- pin is facing the blue 5v relay. The two pin enable (EN) jumper is just to the right of the SRN jumper connector. The two pin header connect should be placed on the EN leads to short them if you have the siren connected.
MAKE SURE not to have either connected if you are using the relay to switch on an external peripheral.
Power Requirements:
Power is connected through the two pin power terminal block. The pin labelled V+ (On board) is where you connect your positive DC voltage (9-12VDC). The GND terminal is the DC ground terminal for your DC ground line (Negative).
I have tried to outline what power is consumed at certain points below at different supply voltages so that you can better determine if your power source will do. The currents are rough, but should be accurate to 10%. It is hard to nail it down because the digits on the clock will weigh on the current consumption at any given time. At 12v input, the siren is louder, but it consumes more current. At 9v, the device consumes less current on the whole, but the siren is less loud. However, it is still certainly loud enough to wake the dead! Please note that the on board regulator will get HOT when the input supply is 12v, but it will not be damaged. Just be careful not to touch it. Also, if you have 11v-12v powering the board, try to make sure that if the alarmis triggered that you keep the siren on for no longer than 30 seconds. This is not an issue if the device is being powered at 9v-10v.
Input Supply Voltage: 8.5v Min to 12v MAX
Current Consumption At 12v:
Standby Current: 40mA (Depending On Clock)
Relay Activated (No Siren): 90mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 280mA- 300mA
Current Consumption At 9v:
Standby Current: 20mA - 25mA (Depending On Clock)
Relay Activated (No Siren): 48mA
Siren Activated: Pulsing 220mA- 240mA
Main Board Size Specifications:
Length: 83mm
Width: 60mm
Height: 18mm
Clock Board Size Specifications:
Length: 105mm
Width: 50mm
Height: 8mm
Siren Size Specifications:
Base Length: 64mm
Base Width: 54mm
Height: 49mm